Eight-panel tweed cap beside a tailor's measuring tape

An independent guide to the cap makers worth knowing

The Scally Cap Directory

Explore 19 makers, understand the cuts, and choose a cap that actually fits your head and your life.

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19 makers across the directory

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All Makers

19 results

The buyer’s handbook

A better cap starts with the right cut.

A cap can look right in a photograph and feel wrong on your head. Start with the shape, then choose cloth for the weather and measure before ordering.

Explore all guides →
01 / THE CROWN

Eight-piece, duckbill or flat?

An eight-piece crown has wedge-shaped panels meeting at the top, creating a rounder, fuller silhouette; a newsboy often has a top button. An ivy or driver cap sits closer to the head with less volume. A duckbill tapers tightly toward the peak, while “flat cap” is often used as the umbrella term—check the side profile rather than the product name alone.

Compare the shapes →
02 / THE FIT

Measure before choosing a size.

Wrap a soft tape around the widest part of your head, roughly a finger above your eyebrows and just above your ears. Keep it level and comfortably snug; take the measurement twice. Compare the number in centimetres with the individual maker’s chart—letter sizes are not universal. If you fall between sizes, check the maker’s exchange policy rather than guessing.

See the measuring diagram →
03 / THE CLOTH

Choose fabric for the season.

Wool tweed is a sound starting point for cool, changeable days: the weave gives the cap texture and body. Linen and lighter cotton tend to breathe better in warm weather. Fabric weight, lining and weave matter as much as the fibre name, so check each product’s materials instead of assuming every tweed or wool cap feels the same.

Read the fabric guides →
04 / THE CARE

Make wool and tweed last.

After rain, let a damp cap air-dry at room temperature with its shape supported; avoid a radiator or tumble dryer, which can distort the crown. Brush away surface dust gently and spot-clean according to the maker’s care label. If the cap has a structured peak or delicate lining, ask the maker before washing it.

More care advice →

New to flat caps? Start here.

Four practical guides covering the things people get wrong most often — sizing, cloth choice, judging construction, and keeping a tweed cap alive through a wet winter.